Sam Adams
Ever since Joanna Gaines started sharing her love of shiplap, I have totally been crushing on it. I put it off for years and finally last week had the time and the guts to tackle a DIY shiplap wall. I researched a lot of ways to install shiplap and wanted to see if I could do it all by myself.
“Shiplap is a type of wooden board used commonly as exterior siding in the construction of residences, barns, sheds, and outbuildings. It is either rough-sawn 1″ or milled 3/4″ pine or similarly inexpensive wood between 3″ and 10″ wide with a 3/8″ – 1/2″ rabbet on opposite sides of each edge. The profile of each board partially overlaps that of the board next to it creating a channel that gives shadow line effects, provides excellent weather protection and allows for dimensional movement.”
It’s not hard, just takes more tools, time and skill set. Hopefully I will give you all the resources you need even if you are a beginner – if I don’t then send me a message! Note: Refer to my 60 second video tutorial here to watch the process! (I used Dewalt 2 inch Brad Nails) Measuring Tape (love my Stanley)
(love my Stanley) Chalk RUSeel (optional – may use a measuring stick instead) (I used Behr Premium Plus Ultra Stain-Blocking – Paint & Primer in One) Sand Paper (220 grit or close to it)
You can also buy plywood and cut it into the 6 inch strips you need. The Home Depot will cut wood for you, but each store will have different stipulations on this.
I wrote an entire post on using The Home Depot Cutting Center here – video tutorial and all. The Home Depot sells plywood in many sizes, but I chose the 4 x 8 foot slats.
Birch Plywood is a closed grain which has smaller pores. The Sande Plywood is open grain which has larger pores.
(Ridgid 18-Gauge Brad Nailer) Jigsaw (Ryobi 4.8-Amp Orbital Jig Saw) (Campbell Hausfeld PortableElectric Air Compressor) Ladder (optional) I also chose to paint the TOP of each strip after as well, it is easier now that later after install. (My post on mini blinds here goes into the stud finder more deeply if it’s your first time.) Then connect the marks from the top to the bottom with a chalk reel (you will have vertical lines on your wall about every 16 inches, which is about how far apart studs are). Attach the reel to the bottom of the wall (tape or have someone help you) and pull the reel to the top of the wall, making sure the line “connects” to the marks you made – think connect the dots here.
Your line needs to be vertically tight, then pull it back and let go. This is an option if you want to use it, but know that if you ever take off your shiplap it will also rip off your drywall and you will have to replace that as well.
If your space is longer than your strips, you will need to puzzle piece them together.
Measure the length you need and start at the top of the wall.
For my Ridgid 18-Gauge Brad Nailer, you press the orange button at the bottom of the handle area and it will release the shaft. Add in the nails with top ends pointing toward the handle.
You pull back the circular end, attach it to the gun and then let go. Once the orange tip is engaged all the way, the nails will release when the trigger is pulled. You will need to make sure your shiplap strip is as close to the top of the wall as possible but still level. Move along the wall and continue to mount where the chalk line shows you. You can use any size of material to make your spaces, depending on what you want. Note: You may have wall plug-in’s or other areas you need to cut around.
You will measure the hole or space you need and then make an outline on your shiplap. Once this area is ALL dry (make sure of this even though it drys quickly), you will sand off the excess. If you do, grab a piece of paper and run the edge into the slit to take out the paint.
