It was a large table at 7.5 feet in diameter (2.25 meter), so I knew it would not be something we could just go out and buy in a regular store. is structurally sound and sturdy enough to hold a heavy top has good proportion and scale Interesting design Can be built with the types of tools and skills we actually posses The materials are available, in existence (no mystery products) and in our budget.
For a while I was thinking about this type of pedestal, but it is pretty difficult to accomplish without some extraordinary math and kerf cutting skills. Then one day a couple of years ago, I was researching laminate countertops because they have come back in a major way in Denmark lately and I came upon one of those bullnose fronts you can put on the front of a laminate countertop (although not back in style in Denmark). It also briefly led me down a path of tambour appliance garage roll front doors, but I abandoned that idea because it comes with a fabric type backing and it was a bit costly an not readily available in the sizes that made sense for our project. Then we came up with this construction to not only attach the trim, but more importantly something sturdy that could hold the weight of the table top.
Frank did some type of math to figure out how the weight distribution would work when considering the width of the pedestal and the overhang of the table top and the leg room needed to be comfortable and of course the most important factor: esthetically pleasing proportions. We decided to have an extra plywood ring on the bottom for the trim to butt into so we added some oak veneer to that sheet since it would be visible.
It was a bit of a puzzle and running back and forth to the table saw at the end, not gonna lie.
Frank made a cross brace situation with a half lap connection in the middle to secure the top onto.
The hardwood store delivered the plywood sheets to a nearby woodshop, who CNC'ed the half circles and glued them together for us, oak on the top and birch on the bottom. We installed these metal aligners (similar) to each half of the table top and used this dowel jig to drill for them.
This is because the satin formula has a little bit of a whiteness to it that does dry clear, but with many layers you could risk a build up that would make it noticeable. I got these Studio McGee chairs for the table and put these sheepskin covers on top for that Viking feel - also great solution for cats. This was not a 10 dollar DIY by any means, nor a beginner project, but it was probably half or a third of what it would have been to get a table made because of the size.